You’ll see the crowds before you see the signage for Hoa Hung Tofu, run by Kevin Ho, who, displaced by the Vietnam War, spent most of his childhood in a Hong Kong immigration camp before arriving in Australia aged 15.

Today, his tofu graces menus across Sydney, but here at Ho’s second canary-yellow shop (the original is in Belmore) you can buy it fresh, pressed into firm squares, fried or (the reason for those queues) as tau hu nuoc duong, quivering, soft-set tofu served with enough ginger syrup to drown in.